kindness at xinjiekou
I went shopping at the elaborate mall and underground food walkway at the Xinjiekou subway station here in Nanjing, China two days ago. I bought a nice winter coat as I had not brought one that is warm enough. It was an adventure trying to find one that fit me. I don’t think they have any big and tall stores in this country at all. At any rate, on the 7th floor of the mall I found one and after saying it’s too much several times the price came down from $500 to about $100 so I bought it. I was worried about even finding my way back to the subway but made it no problem.
On the escalator back down I saw three black guys coming up and they were all looking around in different directions looking rather uneasy. I mean they looked scared or concerned or something like “what the hell have I gotten myself into?” I smiled and nodded when they saw me. Big smiles all around – total relief and understanding of each other for a brief moment. I probably looked just as scared, although I do my best not to look that way on the outside even if I feel that way inside. And most of the time I don’t feel worried about the people around me, only about my ability to get to where I need to go.
I walked into the Xinjiekou subway station feeling confident I knew how to use the subway as I have done it many times before. Unlike American subways, everyone has to put their bags through a scanning machine and there are police-looking people staffing those machines. Other than that, and the sheer volume of people passing through, it is all very similar. I have been more aware of government-looking people ever since the US arrested Meng Wanzhou in Canada and China arrested a Canadian citizen here. I don’t think I have anything to worry about but no reason to be too obvious about this particular American (me) being in China.
Anyway, back to the topic, I walked up to the subway token machine at Xinjiekou station, selected Gulou as my destination, and put my money in. It would not take the paper money. Then i saw the machine had a little X next to a picture of paper money but coins were ok. So I stepped away to look for my coins. There was a young couple at the next machine and he asked me in simple English “where you go?” I said Gulou. They seemed to be struggling with their machine too and I saw they were putting in coins but their machine had an X above a picture of coins. I considered trying to communicate this but decided it was way too complicated for my Chinese and their English. I thought, of all people, I hope they are not asking me for help as I am barely making it on my own.
So I stepped back and dug for my coins. I found the coins and when I looked up and he was standing in front of me holding out a blue subway token. “Gulou” he said with a big smile. I took it and offered him the money and he shook his hand no. I thought to explain I am ok to buy my token but was just left speechless. I said 谢谢 with a big smile. They both smiled and waved as they walked into the station.
I think I may be a little over-sensitive at the moment for some reason I don’t understand, but I thought I would start crying right there in the subway station with hundreds of people walking past. It was such a kind and unexpected gesture that took me totally off guard. I am almost always aware of my cultural and language difference (shortcomings) from the people around me in China, but I rarely if ever think about race. Being the only white person in the Xinjiekou subway station is a visual indicator that I might not speak Mandarin or know how to use the subway station. Usually it is a signal to people selling fake handbags and rolex watches to come up to me and try to sell something. But hiding from those people also means hiding from these wonderful people. I don’t want to hide or protect myself from kindness!
Being here in China, being open, being honest and present, being curious and authentic, all lead to finding wonderful people all around me.
David Geiger, Nanjing, China
david geiger 
One Response to “kindness at xinjiekou”
You’re just as I remember you….kind, compassionate, unselfish. Always looking for the good in everyone you meet, and when you do, you’re most humble when they see it in you. Be safe and enjoy your time there.
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